Yesterday I headed to Rocky Mountain National Park to squeeze every last bit of value out of my annual parks pass that expires at the end of July. My goal was to repeat the route of my mid-January snowshoe trek to Nymph, Dream and Emerald Lakes (see Emerald Lake FTW*), plus I threw in a couple of extra lakes, Bear Lake and Lake Haiyaha, for good measure.

Rocky Mountain National Park isn’t exactly the best place to go hiking during the summer, especially not on one of the most popular trails in the park. It wasn’t horribly crowded on the way up, but on the way back the trail was reminiscent of the LA Freeway at rush hour. I can’t imagine what it’s like on weekends! Ugh.

But it was a wonderful, wonderful hike and a very different experience from my last visit. The addition of Lake Haiyaha was especially nice. Lake Haiyaha sits amid a jumble of boulders, some of which are absolutely MASSIVE, in the middle of Chaos Canyon, which is just on the other side of a ridge from Dream and Emerald Lakes. The boulders make getting TO the lake a bit of a challenge, but it’s a very impressive setting.

Dream Lake and Hallett Peak

Dream Lake and Hallett Peak

Tyndall Creek cascade between Dream and Emerald Lakes

Tyndall Creek cascade between Dream and Emerald Lakes

Emerald Lake peeking through the trees

Emerald Lake peeking through the trees

Emerald Lake and Hallett Peak

Emerald Lake and Hallett Peak

Lake Haiyaha. The large patch of snow in the saddle on the left is Chaotic Glacier.

Lake Haiyaha. The large patch of snow in the saddle on the left is Chaotic Glacier.

More tomorrow!

 

I made attempt #4 at Emerald Lake yesterday and am pleased to report that I was successful! Woot!

It was a lovely day for a hike, though a bit cooler and windier than it was last weekend. I asked the ranger at the park entrance if it was busy and she said, “No it’s pretty quiet today.” YESSSSSSSSS!! I stopped a couple of times along the way to the Bear Lake parking lot to take shots of a bank of clouds lingering over the peaks. Very cool! My destination for the day was just below and to the right of the mountain with the sloped top (Hallett Peak) in the center of the photo below.

Cloud-covered peaks from the road to Bear Lake

Cloud-covered peaks from the road to Bear Lake

Oh, and yes, I used the snowshoes this time. Wow, snowshoeing is definitely a workout above and beyond regular ol’ walking. I really had to make an effort to walk with my feet parallel so I didn’t step all over myself. I met some really nice folks along the trail, one couple from Tennessee and the other from Kentucky, who were vacationing together. I walked and talked with them a bit of the way to Dream Lake and very much enjoyed the company. I told them I was going to make them famous, so here they are:

My hiking companions

My hiking companions

Past Dream Lake, I took a different route than the one I attempted last week. This one was much more well-trodden, but quite steep in spots. I discovered all on my own that the best way to go up steep inclines on snowshoes is to walk on your toes because that’s where the teeth are. Going down steep inclines is a whole ‘nother story. I haven’t figured out a good technique for that yet.

After about another ¾ mile, I reached my long-awaited destination. Emerald Lake fills a small bowl at the base of Hallett Peak and the south spires of Flattop Mountain – it’s an absolutely stunning setting. I didn’t spend a whole lot of time there because the wind had really kicked up and it was extremely cold. I did manage to get the lake to myself for a bit and that was really cool. One thing about winter hiking is that you can’t really sit down and rest without freezing your butt. I should probably invest in some snow pants one of these days. That might help.

Emerald Lake below Hallett Peak and the spires of Flattop Mountain

Emerald Lake below Hallett Peak and the spires of Flattop Mountain

The trek back to the parking lot was mostly uneventful, although those steeper downhill parts were a challenge. To be just a little adventurous, I took a side trail shortcut that went off through the woods that was kind of fun because the snow was deep and fluffy and that’s much more interesting than crunch-crunch-crunching your way down a trail with hard-packed snow.

So now I can cross Emerald Lake off the list until the summer.

Oh, one other thing. On my way through Estes Park on my way home, I saw a very large herd of elk, mostly females, hanging out at the golf course, which I understand is their usual hangout in the winter months. I stopped to snap a few (166) photos and managed to catch a couple of young males trying out their sparring techniques.

Sparring practice

Sparring practice

Additional photos from the day can be found by clicking HERE

*FTW (Internet slang) – “for the win”: Of something which completes a process in a successful manner or is of the speaker’s personal preference. (Trivia tidbit:  the phrase “for the win” originated with the TV game show Hollywood Squares).

 
Fir cone on Dream Lake ice

Photography is all about light. You can be standing in front of the most incredibly beautiful scenery on the planet with the most advanced camera gear available, but if the light isn’t good, you’re just NOT going to get a great landscape photo. One of the reasons I keep going back to the Nymph/Dream/Emerald Lakes trail in Tyndall Gorge is that I keep hoping for better light. The first time I went, I saw that the sun hadn’t cleared the ridge above Dream Lake by 12:30pm so more than half of the gorge, including the lake, was bathed in perpetual shadow. I went a little later in the day the next time, but it was cloudy that day and the weather conditions precluded decent photography anyway. During my hike to the same place this past Sunday, I was poking around on the frozen surface of Dream Lake, taking pictures of the fascinating patterns in the ice and I thought how spectacular my ice photos were going to be once the sun hit the ice. But by 1:00 or so, I realized that the sun probably never does come all the way above that ridge this time of year… it just skims along right below the ridgeline without ever completely showing itself. I’m still planning on a 4th attempt at Emerald Lake on Friday, but only because I am determined to reach Emerald Lake, not because I think I’m going to get any great photos. I’ll hope for the best, though. I can tell that this is going to be one of those places that I’ll have to visit in every season. But not on weekends.

As I mentioned in my previous post, I’m hoping that by scheduling Emerald Lake Attempt #4 on a Friday, I won’t have to deal with SO very many people. I may have exaggerated a bit when I put the number of fellow hikers on Sunday at 500,000, but really, there were a LOT of people. I prefer a certain measure of solitude when I’m out in my mountains, which is why I usually go on my every-other-Fridays-off and not on weekends.

It’s also more difficult to do landscape photography when there are hordes of people in view. It’s generally easy to clone a couple of people out of a photo with Photoshop, but it takes a lot more work to wipe out hordes of people. Now I do realize that there are significantly more dangers inherent in winter hiking and I do like to have SOME people at least within shouting distance in case I get buried in an avalanche or fall through the ice while walking across a frozen lake or fall off a cliff or something. But just SOME people, not 500,000.

Dream Lake ice patterns

Dream Lake ice patterns

More Dream Lake ice patterns

More Dream Lake ice patterns

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